There are many terms related to leather that are often confused or intentionally misused to mislead buyers. This can quickly become overwhelming for a layperson. What are the characteristics of different types of leather? What leather is best suited for what purpose, and what do terms like “Genuine Leather,” “Full Leather,” or “Full-Grain Leather” actually mean?
To clear up these confusions, we’ll cover the various types of belt leather, their characteristics, manufacturing processes, and how to recognize genuine leather.
Full-Grain vs. Split Leather: What’s the Difference?
When choosing the right leather, you'll encounter terms like full-grain leather, split leather, and full-grain leather. Each genuine leather type is either full-grain or split leather, and these terms are often misused, even among fashion experts. The differences pertain to the different layers of the hide, their processing, quality, and durability. Thus, each type of leather has its own specific uses and benefits.
Full-Grain Leather
Full-grain leather uses the entire thickness of the hide, preserving all of its natural properties and durability. It remains a single, uninterrupted layer that maintains its natural smoothness and strength. This leather is processed only on the flesh side and thinned to the desired thickness. Note that “full-grain” and “full-grain leather” are not the same. Laminated and embossed split leathers should not be referred to as “full-grain.”
Split Leather
Split leather, including grain-split leather, is created by splitting the hide horizontally into multiple layers. The grain split is the top layer, separated from the rest of the hide. This layer is thinner and less durable than full-grain leather, as only part of the original hide is used. The resulting layers are called grain split (top split), flesh split (bottom split), and for heavier hides, core split (middle split). The layers below are rough on both sides, similar to the back of the hide.
After leaving the tannery, the term “grain split” is no longer used. Instead, terms like “smooth leather,” “aniline leather,” or “nappa” are used depending on the leather type. The term “split” no longer appears in relation to the grain side. The bottom split with its rough surfaces is then referred to as “split leather,” “split velour,” or “velour leather,” or with the general term “suede.” For clarity, using “split” always indicates the less stable lower layer.
Full-Grain Leather (also known as Full-Grain Leather)
A subset of split leather, this leather comes from the grain split and is smooth leather where the natural grain, including any imperfections, remains unchanged. Any processing like sanding or buffing would disqualify it from this classification. Aniline and semi-aniline leathers also fall into this category, as they do not remove the natural grain.
Full-grain leather is considered high quality because the surface remains natural and the dyeing process is usually lighter. Since it comes from the top layer of the hide, the leather retains the natural texture, strength, and longevity of the hide. This includes the natural texture, strength, and durability of the leather. These characteristics allow the leather to develop a beautiful patina over time and adapt to the individual wearer's use, without quickly showing cracks and distortions like lower-quality leather.
Embossed Leather
Embossed leather isn't a specific type of leather but a finishing process applied to various types of leather to enhance their surface texture and appearance. The term refers to the process of stamping a pattern or texture onto the leather's surface. Many products that resemble exotic leathers, such as alligator leather, are often actually made from cowhide that has been embossed with an alligator pattern. This is a common practice to mimic the look and texture of expensive and rare exotic leathers while keeping costs lower. To smooth and color the surface after embossing, a thicker top layer is often required compared to full-grain leather. This thickness affects the leather's softness and naturalness. Unlike full-grain leather, embossed leather can have its grain altered to some extent. Processing like sanding and polishing is permitted on full-grain leather, but altering the grain side is not allowed for split leather.
“Genuine” Leather
As a consumer, it’s often challenging to determine if a product is truly made of leather and what type it is. Unfortunately, there is no uniform labeling standard, making it difficult to identify the leather type. The absence of consistent labeling often leads to misleading terms designed to create the impression of a more expensive product.
Leather goods are often marked with a symbol of an outspread animal hide, with the addition of “Genuine Leather” at least ensuring that it is real leather. Without this addition, the symbol can be misleading, and its unauthorized use is monitored by the European Leather and Fur Association (ELCA). However, this symbol is not protected by uniform standards, so anyone can design their own similar symbol and use it as they wish.
Synthetic Leather
Synthetic leather is used in many areas where real leather is also found, such as shoes, clothing, furniture, and car interiors. Manufacturers have done a good job mimicking leather surfaces. However, synthetic leather cannot match the properties of genuine leather, such as breathability, tactile feel, and water vapor permeability. Therefore, synthetic leather is usually the cheaper alternative to real leather.
Various Types of Leather
In addition to full-grain and split leather, numerous treatment and finishing techniques offer specific characteristics and uses. We mainly distinguish between smooth and suede leathers.
Smooth Leather
This leather uses the grain side out. It is durable and water-resistant, making it ideal for long-lasting products. Its texture can vary based on the animal’s skin; for instance, calfskin has a very flat grain, while alligator leather has a pronounced grain pattern.
Patent Leather
This smooth leather is coated with a glossy finish to create a distinctive shine. However, this coating hides the leather’s natural texture. While it is water-resistant, it is also very susceptible to scratches.
Nappa Leather
Soft, chrome-tanned full-grain leather known for its supple surface. Originally referring to glove and apparel leather from Napa Valley in the U.S., today “Nappa leather” is a general term for soft, high-quality leather from various animals and uses. Its softness and flexibility make it ideal for comfortable, high-quality belts, suitable for both formal and casual wear.
Aniline Leather
A natural smooth leather where the hair pores are still visible. It is very sensitive to moisture and dirt, as its surface is left untreated to maintain its natural look. This leather develops a unique patina over time, with changes in color and texture reflecting the natural aging process.
Suede Leather
The counterpart to smooth leather, suede is made by sanding the leather to create a fibrous texture. It is more delicate and requires more care than smooth leather but is often more comfortable and visually interesting.
Velvet Leather
Velvet leather is made from the flesh split and is created by sanding the flesh side of the leather to achieve a soft, velvety surface.
Nubuck Leather
Similar to velvet leather but sanded on the grain side, nubuck leather has a soft, velvety texture. It is somewhat more delicate and requires careful maintenance. The term “Nubuck” likely comes from “Buckskin,” referring to wild leather with a similar appearance.
Wild Leather
High-quality full-grain leather from wild animals, known for exceptional durability and tear resistance. It has a distinctive, soft, and velvety texture and is also water-permeable and flexible.
Through-Dyed vs. Surface-Dyed Leather
Through-Dyed Leather:
In this process, leather is soaked in dye baths, allowing the color to penetrate deeply into the leather fibers and evenly color the material. This makes deeper scratches less noticeable since the color extends throughout the leather. However, through-dyeing can obscure the natural texture and surface features of the leather. This method is used in a range of leather goods, from high-end to lower-cost items. While through-dyed leather provides a more uniform color, it can sometimes result in stiffer leather and may be more prone to cracking if the base material and processing are of lower quality.
Surface-Dyed Leather:
Here, the color is applied only to the surface of the leather. Deep scratches reveal the untreated interior, making them more visible. Surface-dyed leather tends to be less breathable than through-dyed leather and is often less expensive to produce. This type of dyeing is more common in budget-friendly leather products.
How to Identify Genuine Leather
For both laypeople and professionals, distinguishing genuine leather from synthetic alternatives can be challenging without thorough inspection. Here are some tips:
- Symbol: Genuine leather is often marked with the genuine leather symbol from the EU leather and fur association.
- Surface: Genuine leather has a fibrous grain side and a smooth texture; synthetic leather tends to be smoother and stiffer.
- Odor: Genuine leather has a distinct natural smell, while synthetic leather might have a chemical odor.
- Price: Genuine leather is generally more expensive than synthetic leather.
- Texture: Genuine leather has natural imperfections; synthetic leather is typically uniform.
- Feel: Genuine leather is softer and more flexible; synthetic leather is often stiffer.
- Edges: Genuine leather often has raw, natural edges; synthetic leather usually has polished or painted edges.
- Color: Genuine leather is often through-dyed; synthetic leather is typically surface-dyed.
- Breathability: Genuine leather is more breathable than non-perforated synthetic leather. Non-perforated synthetic leather can cause more sweating compared to genuine leather. Perforated synthetic leather can mitigate this difference.
- Noise: Synthetic leather may make more noise, especially in cheaper versions.
- Wear: Damage in synthetic leather often reveals underlying fabric, while genuine leather wears more evenly and shows different signs of aging.
Manufacturing Process
The process of making tanned leather is complex and involves several key steps: preparation, tanning, and drying.
Preparation
First, animal hides are separated from the flesh and quickly placed in a salt bath to prevent decomposition. The hair is then removed in a lime bath.
Tanning
The hides are then treated with chrome salts or plant-based tannins to preserve and protect the leather. The type of tanning affects the leather’s quality significantly. Chrome tanning, which is commonly used, produces flexible leather suitable for clothing and accessories. Plant-based tanning, using tree bark, is often used for furniture and luggage. Synthetic tanning, with artificial chemicals, complements other methods but can make the leather more susceptible to moisture and UV light. Other tanning methods, such as alum tanning or fish oil tanning, result in less stable leather that may be sensitive or have unusual coloring.
Drying
After tanning, the leather is dried by rolling to remove moisture. During this process, the leather's quality is assessed to determine its suitability for various uses.
Leather processing includes cutting and sewing with special needles and heavy threads. Ideally, water-based dyes are used for coloring since alcohol-based dyes can dry out and crack the leather.
